Red brick was probably part of the reason you bought your house. Years later, that same brick can start to feel heavy, dated, or out of step with a remodeled kitchen or a new roof. Learning how to whitewash exterior brick is one of the few updates that lightens a home's whole look without covering up the texture that made the brick interesting in the first place.
This guide walks through what the process actually involves, from checking whether your brick is a good candidate to the exact steps and the mistakes that ruin a job, plus when it makes sense to bring in a professional like Ranger Painting.
Key Takeaways
Whitewashing dilutes paint or lime with water so the brick's texture and some of its original color still show through, unlike a full, opaque paint job.
Brick that has already been painted will not take a whitewash. The old paint has to come off first.
A true lime-based limewash breathes better and lasts longer than a diluted latex whitewash, though it costs more per gallon.
Central Texas heat can dry a whitewash coat before it has time to cure properly, so timing and technique matter more here than in a milder climate.
Materials for a DIY whitewash run $50 to $300. A professionally applied job typically falls in the $4,000 to $10,000 range, depending on brick condition and prep needed.
What Is Whitewashing Brick?
Whitewashing brick means diluting white paint or lime with water and brushing, rolling, or spraying it onto the brick so some of the original color and texture still show through. It is not the same as painting brick, which covers the surface completely in a solid, opaque coat.
Whitewash usually means diluted latex paint. Limewash is a different material entirely, made from hydrated lime and water, and it behaves differently on the wall. If you are trying to decide which one fits your home, Limewash vs Whitewash Brick: Which Is Right for Your Home? breaks the difference down in more depth. There is also German smear, which uses a trowel to drag white mortar across the brick instead of a brush, giving a heavier, more textured finish. This guide focuses on whitewash and limewash, since those are the two most homeowners in Austin ask about.
Whitewash vs. Limewash vs. Full Brick Paint
| Whitewash (diluted paint) | Limewash (lime and water) | Full Brick Paint | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Look | Soft, semi-transparent, brick shows through | Chalky, matte, deep texture, ages into a patina | Solid, opaque, no brick visible |
| Breathability | Limited, still forms a light film | Fully vapor-permeable | Lowest, can trap moisture without a breathable formula |
| Reversibility | Can be pressure washed off while fresh | Can be scrubbed off early, calcifies over time | Effectively permanent once cured |
| Typical lifespan | 5 to 10 years | 15 to 25 years | 5 to 20 years, depending on product and prep |
Is Your Brick a Good Candidate for Whitewashing?
Not every brick wall is ready for a whitewash. Unpainted brick with strong texture is the best candidate. Whitewash and limewash both need a porous surface to bond to, so if your brick has already been painted, sealed, or coated with a clear water repellent, the wash will sit on top instead of soaking in, and it will eventually peel.
Older brick in neighborhoods like Tarrytown often has decades of dirt, mortar wear, and sometimes a prior coat of paint to account for. Newer brick veneer in Cedar Park and the surrounding suburbs is usually cleaner and more consistent, which makes it a more forgiving DIY candidate. If you are not sure which category your home falls into, that is exactly what a walkthrough from Ranger Painting's Brick Painting team is for.
Reading the Brick and Mortar Before You Start
Before any whitewash goes on, look closely at the mortar joints and the brick faces. Open or crumbling mortar joints need repair first, or the wash will just highlight the damage instead of hiding it. Watch for efflorescence too, the white, chalky salt deposits that can push up through brick and mortar. Efflorescence usually means moisture is moving through the wall from somewhere, and coating over it without addressing the source just traps the problem under a fresh layer of white.
What You'll Need to Whitewash Brick
| Tools | Materials |
|---|---|
| Pressure washer or garden hose | White latex paint or lime-based limewash |
| Stiff scrub brush | Water |
| Drop cloths and painter's tape | TSP or a mild masonry cleaner |
| Mixing bucket and stir stick | Masking materials for windows, trim, and landscaping |
How to Whitewash Exterior Brick Step by Step
Step 1: Clean the Brick
Start with a pressure wash or a firm hand scrub using a mild masonry cleaner and water. Dirt, pollen, and old chalking on the brick surface will keep whitewash from bonding evenly, so this step is not optional. Let the brick dry completely before moving on. A damp wall can take a day or more to dry fully in Central Texas humidity, so plan around it rather than rushing the next step.
Step 2: Test Your Mix
Mix a small test batch and apply it to a hidden section of brick, like a side wall or an area behind landscaping. Let it dry completely before judging the color, since both whitewash and limewash dry lighter than they look wet. This step catches a mix that is too heavy or too thin before it is on the whole house.
Step 3: Mix the Whitewash
For a paint-based whitewash, start with a 1:1 ratio of white latex paint to water and adjust from there. Thinner mixes let more brick color show through. Thicker mixes cover more of the red or brown tone. If you are using a true lime-based limewash, follow the manufacturer's mixing instructions exactly, since lime behaves differently than paint and does not forgive guesswork the same way.
Step 4: Apply and Distress for Texture
Work the brick in small sections, brushing the mix into the mortar joints first and then the brick faces. Dab or wipe with a damp rag while the wash is still wet if you want more of the original brick to show through. A drier brush and a lighter touch gives a more solid, opaque look.
Step 5: Let It Cure
Resist the urge to judge the finish too early. Both whitewash and limewash change color as they dry, and limewash keeps curing for days after it looks dry to the touch.
Heat is the real variable in Central Texas. Direct summer sun pulls the moisture out of a limewash coat before it has time to cure properly, and the National Park Service's own preservation research on limewash notes that historic crews traditionally applied it in spring or fall and dampened the surface first specifically to slow that drying process down. A coat that dries too fast tends to come out weak, chalky, and prone to cracking instead of bonding into the brick. Work early in the morning, pick an overcast day if you can, or mist the wall with water right before you start.
Common Mistakes That Ruin a Whitewash Job
Whitewashing over painted or sealed brick. Neither whitewash nor limewash bonds to a surface that is already coated. The old paint has to come off first, and lead paint on homes built before 1978 needs careful handling or professional removal rather than sanding or scraping by hand.
Skipping the test patch. A mix that looks right in the bucket can dry two shades darker or lighter than expected. Testing on a small, hidden section first saves an entire wall from a redo.
Working in full summer sun. As covered above, heat dries the wash before it can bond properly, leading to a chalky, uneven finish that wears off within a season instead of years.
Mixing an inconsistent ratio. If the lime or paint settles and is not stirred through the whole job, some sections will look heavier than others. Mix enough for the entire wall at once, and stir it again periodically as you work.
How Long Does Whitewashed Brick Last?
The comparison above covers the general ranges, but a few things move the number up or down. South and west-facing walls take the brunt of the Texas sun and fade faster than north-facing walls on the same house. Brick that was properly cleaned and repaired before the wash went on holds up longer than brick that was rushed through prep. And a true lime-based limewash will always outlast a diluted latex whitewash, since it bonds into the brick rather than sitting on top of it.
Touch-ups are part of the deal either way. Expect to freshen high-exposure walls sooner than shaded ones, and keep a little extra mixed material on hand in case a section needs a match down the road.
DIY Whitewashing vs. Hiring a Professional
Materials for a DIY whitewash typically run $50 to $300, depending on how much brick you are covering and whether you choose latex paint or true lime. That is the appeal of doing it yourself. It is a relatively low-cost weekend project if your brick is in good shape and you are comfortable working outside in Central Texas heat.
Where a DIY job runs into trouble is consistency. An uneven mix, a section applied in full sun while the rest was done at dawn, or mortar joints that needed repair before the wash went on can all show up as visible patches once the whole wall is finished. Fixing a patchy whitewash after the fact usually means stripping and starting over, which costs more in time and materials than doing it right the first time.
Why Austin-Area Homeowners Trust Ranger Painting with Brick Work
Nathan Wingate has spent more than 20 years in the trades, and he walks every Ranger Painting project in person, from the first look at your brick to the final walkthrough. That includes homes across Cedar Park, Austin, Round Rock, Georgetown, Leander, Pflugerville, Lakeway, Bee Cave, Lago Vista, and West Lake Hills, each with its own brick types and quirks, from older painted brick in central Austin to newer brick veneer out toward Leander and Round Rock.
Ranger backs every brick project with four safeguards:
No deposit is not a limited-time offer. It is how Ranger has operated since day one, because a homeowner should never have to gamble on whether a contractor finishes the job before they see a return on their money.
No deposit. You pay $0 upfront and only after the final walkthrough confirms the work is right.
BBB A+ Accreditation.
A $25,000 Good Contractors List guarantee.
Up to a 5-year written workmanship warranty.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you whitewash brick that's already been painted?
No. Whitewash and limewash both need to soak into bare, porous brick to bond correctly. If your brick has been painted, the old paint needs to come off first, either by stripping it or having a professional remove it.
How long does whitewashed brick last?
A diluted latex whitewash typically lasts 5 to 10 years. A true lime-based limewash can last 15 to 25 years with only light maintenance.
Is whitewashing brick permanent, or can it be undone?
Whitewash and limewash are both more forgiving than a full, opaque paint job. A fresh coat can often be pressure washed or scrubbed off, and limewash can be reapplied or adjusted more easily than standard paint. Once either has fully cured over months or years, though, removing it completely takes more work.
What's the difference between whitewash and limewash?
Whitewash is usually diluted latex paint. Limewash is made from hydrated lime and water, and it bonds into the brick instead of sitting on top of it, which makes it more breathable and longer-lasting. Limewash vs Whitewash Brick: Which Is Right for Your Home? covers the full side-by-side comparison.
Does whitewashing hurt or help home value, or is it out of style?
Whitewashed and limewashed brick have stayed popular for years now, especially on older homes with heavy red or brown brick that can feel dated next to a remodeled interior or a new roof. A well-done whitewash tends to help curb appeal rather than hurt it, though extremely trend-driven finishes can date a home the way any style choice can.
Should I whitewash my brick myself or hire a professional?
If your brick is in good condition, faces mostly north or east, and you are comfortable with a multi-day outdoor project, DIY is realistic. If your brick has mortar damage, efflorescence, painted sections, or heavy sun exposure, a professional assessment is worth the estimate before you buy materials.
Your Brick, Ready for Its Next Chapter
Whitewashing is one of the more forgiving updates you can make to a brick exterior, but forgiving does not mean foolproof. Getting the surface right, the timing right, and the mix right is what separates a finish that lasts fifteen years from one that needs redoing next summer.
If you would rather have someone who has read hundreds of Austin-area brick walls make that call for you, book your free estimate or call (512) 270-2617, and Ranger Painting will walk your brick with you before anything gets mixed.
Nathan Wingate
Nathan Wingate is the owner and operator of Ranger Painting in Cedar Park, TX. With years of hands-on experience spraying custom cabinet enamels and residential finishes, Nathan personally oversees every project from initial walkthrough to final sign-off.
